Jokerman170
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Joined: 12 Feb 2011
Posts: 16
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 Posted: 12/02/2011 22:17 Post subject: Guide : 8v - Basic service, Coolant change and cam cover gas |
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If you want to keep your car running sweet you need to take care of it. The following should be done every 6 months or every 6k, depending on which comes first. This is just a basic service so it's just the simple stuff. After 6k or 6 months not everything will always need to be replaced, just check it and see if you think it needs to be, e.g. the filter is really dirty.
What you need
- Panel filter
- Oil (Synthetic-based multi grade engine oil) SAE 5w/30 to 10w/40, to ACEA A1, A3-96 or better
- Oil filter
- Spark plug tool
- Spark plugs
- Screwdriver
- 12mm allen key
- A bucket (which can hold at least 3l of fluid)
- A tray
- A jack
- Axle stands
- Sump plug
- Creeper trolley (optional)
Panel Filter change
Very easy to do. Pop the bonnet, unto the two Allen keys located at either end of the filter which attaches it to the car. Lift off the
whole plastic unit. Using a screwdriver undo all the screws on the top of the unit and remove the top:
Pull the old filter out, replace with the new filter and do all of the above in reverse.
Changing spark plugs
You'll need a spark plug tool. I think it's 10mm but don't quote me on that - take a spark plug with you when you go to get one to make sure it fits! The one i have was £10 from Halfords and has a rubber washer inside (to hold the spark in place) alternatively you can get a magnetic one which is around £20. You need spark plugs too, make sure you get the right type - i got standard replacements from Fiat.
To remove the plugs you need to remove the leads - pull the end of the lead from the plug by gripping the top of the lead and giving it a tug:
If you want you can remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using compressed air, to prevent dirt from dropping into the cylinders. Using the spark plug tool remove the spark plug:
The condition of the spark plug will give an indication of the condition of the engine:
-If the insulator nose of the plug is clean and white with no deposits it would suggest that a weak mixture or that the plug has been getting too hot.
-If the tip and insulator are covered in hard, negru deposits it would suggest that the mixture is too rich.
-If the plug is black and oily it would suggest that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich.
-If the insulator nose is covered in a light tan to grey colour the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good nick.
Before you put a new spark in make sure that the electrode gap is of the correct amount - for the 8v it should be 0.8mm for Bosch plugs and 0.9mm for NGK's. To set the gap use a feeler blade and adjust the gap as necessary. The spark plug electrode gap is important to the well being of the car - if it is too small or too big the size of the spark and it's efficiency will be impaired.
Check that the threaded connector on the new plug is tight and the plug is nice and clean. Gently place the spark into position in the engine and tighten with the spark removal tool. It's a bit fiddly on the 8v so be patient, you don't want to get it wrong and you don't want to cross thread the sparks!
Re-Fit the HT lead.
Do the same for the others.
Oil and oil filter change
Jack the car up and put it onto axle stands. Make sure they are high enough for you to get under the car.
Get under the car and locate the sump plug. I put an 11mm Allen key in so you can see:
With the bucket close by start to undo the sump plug. Mine was tight as a bitch so i used the breaker bar to aid with it's removal. When it's nearly out put the bucket under and finish unscrewing the plug with your hands. Let the oil drain into a bucket:
The next thing to do is remove the oil filter. I borrowed a filter removal tool, they aint great but they're ok, you can see it next to the new filter:
Get under the car with the filter removal tool and locate the filter:
Wrap the chain around the filter and unscrew it. Have a tray next to you to put the filter into and also to stop oil getting all over the floor:
Put a light coating of oil around the edge of the new filter:
Screw the new filter into place.
Screw the new sump plug back in, make sure it's tight, you don't want it coming loose and your oil going all over the shop.
Locate the oil top up point:
[img]http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01819.jpg
[/img]
Remove the cap:
You need 2.8 litres of oil. Measure it out and pour it in. I used a 750ml bottle dan had in his car - it's a pain using the 5l container of oil and not spilling it. To check you have enough in use the dip stick
Sit back, that's the job done.
Cooling system draining
First things first, make sure you have the following:
- A container (need to be big enough to hold 4+ litres of coolant)
- A funnel (optional)
- A screwdriver
- Pointy nose plyers
- 1 jubilee clip (get another if you want to flush the radiator)
- A garden hose
- 2-3l of coolant
- Measuring jug
Before you attempt any of this, there are a few things you should know. Antifreeze (the stuff that's in the coolant) is poisonus, so don't leave it in a puddle somewhere - drain the system into a bucket and pour it directly down the drain. If you leave it in a puddle outside your house animals and kids are prone to going to have a look at it, and perhaps lick it . Antifreeze will also damage your paintwork and skin if you spill any on either of them. To avoid a reaction make sure you wash the antifreeze off thorougly.
Remember that the cooling system works under pressure. As the car gets warmer the pressure builds. Please make sure that the car is cold before you attempt to do anything to the system. Once you're satisfied the car is cold (and has been for a while) wrap a rag around the expansion tank filler cap and gently undo it until you hear air being forced out. Wait until the noise goes away then continue to remove the cap:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01919.jpg
Get your container and position it unde rthe car so that it's directly below the bottom hose of the radiator. The clips on the hoses can't be re-used so make sure you have a jubilee clip for when you re-fit it. To get the autentic clip off get your long nose plyers, place them around the part of the clip holding it in place and twist it till is snaps off:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01920.jpg
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01941.jpg
Gently remove the bottom pipe - make sure you're not too rough with it, if you snap the connection off you're gonna have to buy some new parts, something i'm sure you'll want to avoid.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01924.jpg
Allow the coolant to drain into the container. The bleed valves should be removed while the coolant is being drained to aid the draining process and also to avoid air locks in the system. The bleed valves are at the top right hand side (as you're looking into the engine bay) of the radiator, it's white:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01926.jpg
The second is located on the heater inlet hose, further back in the engine bay:
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01940.jpg
Closer...
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01939.jpg
Once all the coolant has been drained put the jubilee clip onto the hose and re-connect. Make sure it's nice and tight.
Cooling system flushing
IF the coolant hasn't been renewed on a regular basis it can become diluted - meaning the cooling system won't be as efficient as it could be. The radiator and engine should be flushed independantly of each other to avoid contamination.
Flushing the radiator
Disconnet the top and bottom hoses.
Insert a garden hose into the top inlet of the radiator. Turn the tap on and continue to flush until clean water comes out of the bottom outlet of the radiator.
If the water doesn't come out of the outlet nice and clean it maybe worth investing in some cooling system cleaning agent. If the contamination is particularly bad insert the garden hose into the outlet of the radiator and 'reverse' flush it.
Engine flushing
Remove the thermostat housing.
Remove the top and bottom pipes from the rad.
Insert a garden hose into the rad inlet hose and turn the tap on. Flush until you see clear water coming from the thermostat housing opening in the cylinder head.
Re-fit the thermostat housing and re-connect the hoses.
Filling the cooling system
Check the general condition of all clips and hoses - make sure they look half decent. If they look like they're going to break buy new ones, they're not expensive.
Remove the expansion tank filler cap as described above. Remove the bleed screws.
If the system is being filled with totally new coolant (i.e. you drained all the old stuff away) pure a couple of litres of water into the expandion tank nice and slowly as to avoid an airlock. At every 1/2 litre interval queeze the top and bottom hoses of the radiator to get any air out of the system. Add coolant in the right quantities (it'll be on the back of the coolant itself) until coolant emerges from the bleed valves.
*image for illustration purposes only, 1 litre isn't enough*
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/richieguy2/DSC01923.jpg
As it emerges from the first valve tighten it up, repeat for the second. Continue filling until the tank is on max.
Re-fit expansion tank filler cap making sure both bleed screws are tight.
Start the engine and run for 4-5 minutes at idle, until the fan kicks in. Tip : Don't have the coolers on in the car and have the temp turned down to cold. When the fan kicks in increase the revs to 2.5-3k. Stop the engine and allow it to cool properly.
Check the system for any leaks, check coolant levels. When you start the car check to see if you can hear an airlock in the system - the sound will come from the passenger footwell (from my experience) and sound like water being gargled around. If the tank is filled to max and the system has an airlock in it open the bleed valves fully and let the car run. Keep the car running until coolant emerges from the first bleed valve. Stop the car, let it cool, put the bleed screw back in. Keep an eye on the coolant level in the filler tank, if it's too low top it up as appropriate. Repeat for the second bleed valve.
Once you've done that you should hopefully have no airlock in the system, if you do, repeat the above.
Changing the cam cover gasket
Things you'll need:
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet
- Ratchet extension
- A rag
- New gasket
- Allen keys
Do i need a new gasket?
If the gasket looks perished and there it oil coming from the joint between the cam cover casing then i'd suggest replacing it. Leaving it perished can lead to all sorts of more major problems.
Below is a pic of a gasket that's preished at the edges and could do with beind replaced:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02103Medium.jpg
Lets get stuck in:
Remove the air filter casing by undoing the two bolts holding it in place:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02104Medium.jpg
Either unclip the camshaft position sensor or undo the bolt holding the camshaft position sensor and remove (O wanted to see what it looked like):
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02105Medium.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02106Medium.jpg
Undo the three 10mm bolts ontop of the cam cover - two at the right hand side and 1 at the left. There is also a bolt on the left hand side inside plastic casing that needs to be removed. There is a clip at the back edge, press it in and pull it out:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02108Medium.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02107Medium.jpg
Lift the cover off:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02108Medium.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02109Medium.jpg
Remove the old gasket:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02110Medium.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02115Medium.jpg
There may be parts of the gasket on the engine, carefully remove them making sure none of it gets into the engine itself:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02111Medium.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02112Medium.jpg
Clean both of the surfaces with a rag ensuring there is no crap on. Pop the gasket in place on the cover:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f265/richardguy5/DSC02113Medium.jpg
Carefully put it back into position and do the bolts up finger tight. Check that the gasket is seated properly and hasn't come out of position. If it has take it out and do it again. Once all the bolts are finger tight do the up to the correct torque setting.
Pop the sensor back in, re-clip the plastic housing at the back.
Put the air filter back on.
Job done[img][/img] |
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